Agra Fort was built by Akbar, and I think was the capital of the Mughal empire for awhile. Before Akbar moved it to Fatehpur Sikri. Shah Jahan was imprisoned in Agra Fort after his son overthrew him. From here he could see the Taj Mahal he built. The fort is impressive. A moat channeled water from the Yamuna river, though these days the moat is a 30 foot deep mess of weeds. Some very beautiful gardens inside. Byond that though, the place would be inhospitable for modern people.
Trans India didn't set me up with a guide for today, and it turned out to be much more pleasant. A bunch of guides ply the street outside the entrance. Apparently there is a queue for them. Two of them got into a discussion over me. At the end, the one who picked me up walked away and I wound up with the second one. He turned out to be pretty informed and a decent guy. At the end of the tour, I found out the deal. He promised the other guide half of his take if he could cut in line. As it was near the end of the day and he hadn't got to the head of the line, he had no income yet. So splitting his fee was better than nothing. I paid him Rs. 500 (about $11) for about an hour's worth of work.
I had wanted to go to a temple that's been in the process of being built for about 100 years now, but it turns out to be 20 km away. And not really enough time.